明日之星
- 发型
- Tristan Waikong
- 化妆
- Evelyn Ho
- 模特
- Masha C at Style
作为连卡佛新晋设计师及品牌培育计划 PLATFORM 的一部分,我们吹响了新品牌集结号,召集各路年轻企业家及设计师们大胆秀出自己的品牌及创作,以赢取在连卡佛横跨香港、上海、北京、成都及线上商店的作品展示及推广机会。
我们仔细浏览了每位参与者的履历及个人介绍,并屡屡被活力四射的设计作品惊艳。 现在,我们将自豪地向您介绍从甄选中脱引而出的新生代女装及珠宝首饰设计品牌。
- 摄影
- Laurent Segretier
- 造型
- Declan Chan
- 发型
- Tristan Waikong
- 化妆
- Evelyn Ho
- 模特
- Masha C at Style
Yirantian
设计师郭一然天还未从伦敦时装学院毕业时,她展现简约主义的设计就已经备受瞩目。 毕业后,她从伦敦回到上海,在一处僻静之地建立了自己的工作室,并于 2014 年创建了自己的品牌 —— Yirantian。 目前,她正集中精力创作 2016 春夏系列。 她透露,全新系列将折射生活中的点滴火花,而七、八十年代的运动装元素也会被融入其中。
郭一然天以融合艺术设计与技术工序见长,她最为人所知的“事迹”便是不惜将面料融化,以求完美表现自己的设计意念。 她希望在不久的将来能有布料制造机的出现,并让工作变得轻松一些。
“你只需要将原材料和理想中的面料草图放入机器里,它就会将这种面料制作出来。”
这样天马行空的想法在今天看来可能有些遥不可及,但必将定义未来的发展路向。“富有创造力将成为我们最重要的核心价值之一,”她说。
WMWM
WMWM 的创始人 Mushroom Song 虽然刚刚毕业,但她的研究生毕业作品系列却已在伦敦时装周上脱引而出。 大廓形的剪裁和慵懒的黑发“蘑菇头”模糊了男女之间的性别界限,她以最纯粹的方式诠释了中性设计的魅力。 据设计师介绍,她的创作灵感源自白日梦,尤其是“醒来后或入睡前的一刻”。 出自 WMWM 的设计不仅不仅散发强烈建筑感,更展现了精准的制衣技艺,无疑将成为引领中国新生代时装设计的瞩目品牌。
对于她心中未来的模样,Mushroom Song 选择了用“质地”、“对比混搭”以及“冷感浪漫”来形容,而这些传递着丰富视觉语汇的关键词,势必也将出现在她未来的设计之中,值得我们拭目以待。
Shushu/Tong
Liushu Lei 和 Yutong Jiang 在创建她们的品牌时,不仅是合并了她们的设计灵感和事业精神,还合并了她们的名字。“品牌名称是由我们的昵称 Shushu 和 Tongtong 组成的,”身为创始人之一的 Liushu Lei 说。 她们在高中时期就互相认识,但是直到上了大学才因两人对日本潮流文化的共同喜爱而结盟。 共同的兴趣爱好一直激励着她们在伦敦时装学院完成了本科和硕士学位,并一路延续到了她们的设计之中。 在她们手中,精致的校园风格服装被添上了蝴蝶结和褶边,为复古造型注入了前卫都市感。
这对设计师搭档对杭州、厦门、成都等新兴时尚重镇报以厚望,并预言中国的时尚格局将在未来二、三十年内发生转变。 她们十分看好中国零售行业的前景,预言上海将成为中国时尚的中心,并拥有一条从设计、制造到分销的完整供应链。“我认为上海将与其它时尚之都,譬如纽约、伦敦和东京齐名,”Lei 说。
“将来,我们会以‘中国制造’为荣。”
“珠宝通常记录着人们最快乐的时刻,因此我希望能通过每一个设计元素表现出人类最美好的一面,而不是最坏的那面。”
Melville Fine Jewellery
历史上最富有戏剧性的人物给予了珠宝设计师 Nathalie Melville 头脑风暴般的启迪。 从希腊女神赫拉、俄罗斯沙皇尼古拉斯二世到十九世纪英国家喻户晓的作家勃朗特三姐妹,历代风流人物的故事和过往都为出自 Nathalie Melville 之手的作品赋予了梦幻色彩。“设计时我会专注于某一个特质,并将其贯穿始终,”她说道。 但是,历史与文学的黑暗面也仅仅只是这位中央圣马丁学院毕业生的一个创作侧重点,对她来说,可持续发展与设计同样重要。 作为香港目前唯一持有公平贸易贵金属许可证的珠宝品牌,符合道德标准的原材料采购也是她始终坚持的核心价值。
虽然 Nathalie 在设计中更多的是借鉴过去,但她也对未来有自己的看法。 她预言未来的二、三十年内,会有更多顾客将目光转向独立设计和工艺,而这也将促成创意行业发生巨大的价值变化,但与此同时,亚洲的变化可能不会来得如此迅速。“太多人才转投‘传统’行业,以为这会是更稳定的选择,但 2008 年的金融危机告诉我们,其实没有一个行业是无坚不摧的。”Melville 说道。
Angel Chen
如果陈安琪按照自己的既定路线发展,她现在应该是一名插画师。 是一位知名时尚鬼才的出现,真正让她改变了路线,转投时尚的怀抱。 她在中学时期接触到了设计师 John Galliano 的作品并喜爱有加,而这也成为了改变她生命轨迹的开始。“他的作品启迪了我的设计之路,”陈安琪说。 从求学于英国伦敦中央圣马丁艺术设计学院到回归家乡上海、创建同名品牌,这个启迪一路引领着她的前行,而早年的绘画背景也仍旧隐现在她无拘无束、行云流水的服装设计风格中。
为庆祝连卡佛成立 165 周年,陈安琪以全新眼光重新诠释了自己备受好评的毕业系列中的标志性作品。 她运用复杂的手制工艺,将多种材料以拼贴画的形式组织到一起,为原有设计赋予了全新生命力,而我们也将这三件活力四溢的瞩目作品展示在了连卡佛店内。
生机勃勃、令人耳目一新的设计通过大胆的用色完美呈现,陈安琪无疑是值得注目的明日设计之星。
“顾客更加重视原创性、针对性和个性。 他们希望与有个性的产品产生共鸣。”
Heting
作为一位沉默寡言的女性,设计和打造珠宝首饰的过程得以让设计师 Carina Wong 自如地表达她的真实想法。 她希望通过受大自然启发的迷人手制单品,赋予佩戴者以相似的转变体验。“就像是她们的感官已经被唤醒,想象力也开始启动,”她说。
虽然这个世界急速发展并越来越数码化,但她坚定地认为,手工技艺仍将发挥联系过去与未来的独特作用。
“手工制品具有把人和回忆联系起来的能力,并激发人们的传承精神。 手工技艺不只关乎知识和技术,而更关乎灵魂。”
这种本质价值仍将是奠定社会价值的基石。“我认为人类的核心价值从未改变,改变的只是我们表达和传递这些价值的方式,”她说道。
选购
Talents Of Tomorrow
- Hair
- Tristan Waikong
- Makeup
- Evelyn Ho
- Model
- Masha C at Style
As part of its PLATFORM initiative to help nurture and grow emerging talent, Lane Crawford held a call-out for emerging young entrepreneurs, brands and designers to pitch their product or work for a promotional platform in Lane Crawford stores across Hong Kong, China and online.
After delving into portfolios and sifting through rack upon rack of pieces crafted by endlessly talented individuals, we’ve been wowed by the level of dynamism currently shining through design. Lane Crawford is proud to introduce the next generation of womenswear designers.
- Photography
- Laurent Segretier
- Styling
- Declan Chan
- Hair
- Tristan Waikong
- Makeup
- Evelyn Ho
- Model
- Masha C at Style
Yirantian
Yirantian Guo’s structured minimalist designs won praise even before she graduated from the London College of Fashion. After swapping the British capital for a tranquil studio in Shanghai, the young designer launched her own label Yirantian in 2014 to high acclaim. She is now focusing on creating the Spring Summer 2016 collection, which will fuse hints and flashes of daily life with the neon of 1970s and 1980s sportswear.
Known for blending artistic design with technological processes (she has been known to melt materials down to fit her vision), Guo hopes one mind-bending invention will make work a tad easier in the future: a fabric-making machine.
“You would put in the materials and a drawing of the fabric or texture you want and the machine will create it.”
Such out-of-the-box thinking might seem extreme today but will come to define the coming decades. “Being creative will become one of our most important values,” she says.
WMWM
Founder of WMWM, Mushroom Song only graduated this year, but her first MA collection was a true standout at London Fashion Week. Presenting a series of looks that embrace androgyny in its purest form – with oversized cuts and blunt black bobs blurring gender lines – she is thrilled to become part of a new generation spearheading the future of fashion in China. Song’s architectural pieces display precision technique and were inspired by daydreams, especially “the moment we wake up or before we fall asleep.”
Summing up how the future will look, Song’s thoughts turn to “texture”, “contradiction and commixture” and "cold romance" – these are just a few of the visually rich phrases that sound like they could be titles of her future collections. Watch this space…
Shushu/Tong
Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang didn’t just marry design inspiration and entrepreneurial spirit when they launched their label; they also paired their names. “It’s made up from our nick names, Shushu and Tongtong,” says co-founder Lei, the Shushu to Jiang’s Tong. They met as girls in high school but bonded at university in Shanghai upon discovering their shared love for Japanese pop culture, a passion that continued to inspire them through BA and MA degrees at the London College of Fashion and still manifests itself in their collections today. Their version of smart school uniforms gets decorated with bows and frills, in a collection that adds an urban edge to even the most nostalgic of looks.
The designers look to emerging fashion retail hubs in Hangzhou, Xiamen and Chengdu to predict how China’s fashion landscape will evolve in the next 20 to 30 years. The retail scene, they think, will be immense. The duo predicts that Shanghai will be at the heart of China’s fashion industry with a full supply chain emerging, enabling fashion brands to design, produce and distribute. “I think Shanghai will be comparable to other fashion capitals like New York, London and Tokyo,” says Lei.
“In the future, we will be proud of the term ‘Made in China’, Lei says.”
“Jewellery often marks the happiest moments in people’s lives so I strive for every element of my work to reflect the best of humanity, not the worst.”
Melville Fine Jewellery
Trust history’s most dramatic icons to turn the head and heart of jeweller Nathalie Melville. Greek goddess Hera, Russian Tsar Nicholas II and 19th-century authors the Brontë sisters are a few of the bewitching figures that have enchanted the artisan designer and her pieces. “I get wrapped up in a character and it permeates the design process,” she admits. But history and literature’s darker sides are just half of the Central Saint Martin alumna’s story. Equally compelling to her work is the issue of sustainability, and as the proud holder of a Fairtrade Precious Metals license, ethical sourcing is key to her sense of integrity.
While the designer more often references the past, she does predict a massive consumer migration to independent design and craftsmanship in the next two to three decades that will see a sea change in the value hitherto placed on creative careers. Elevation cannot come soon enough to Asia, says Melville. “Too many talented individuals are being diverted into ‘traditional’ jobs in the belief it is a more stable option,” she says, but “if the 2008 financial crash taught us anything, it is that no industry is bullet proof.”
Angel Chen
If Angel Chen had followed her original plan, she’d be an illustrator now. It took a major fashion wunderkind to draw her into fashion. She was inspired by John Galliano while in middle school and this forever altered her path. “He enlightened my way of design,” she says. That enlightenment took her all the way to London’s Central Saint Martin’s and back home to Shanghai to start her eponymous brand. There remains in her free-spirited, fluid clothing an echo of her artistic roots.
To celebrate Lane Crawford’s 165th anniversary, Chen reworked some of the signature pieces from her much-heralded graduate collection with a fresh eye. Through complex handmade processes and many different textures, Chen layered found materials almost like a collage onto the existing designs, giving them a new lease of life.
The vibrant results are made to catch the eye, and Lane Crawford is proud to exhibit three of Chen’s key pieces in stores across Hong Kong and China. Refreshing, spirited designs, expressed through a bold use of colour, Angel Chen is one to watch.
“Consumers are paying more attention to original creativity, pertinence and personality. They want to get in touch with products that have character.”
Heting
A woman of few words, Carina Wong of Heting reveals that jewellery making has allowed her to reveal her true voice. The artisan continues to make connections through collections of beguiling handmade pieces inspired by nature that she hopes bestow a similarly transformative experience for those handling them. “As if their senses have been awakened and they’ve activated their imaginations,” she says.
Despite an increasingly digital, fast-moving world, Wong predicts that craftsmanship will play a unique part in linking the future with our past.
“Artisanal work has the power to connect people with memory and inspire the spirit of heritage. Craftsmanship is not just about knowledge and skill; it’s about soul.”
Such intrinsic values will remain cornerstone values to society. “I think our core values as humans have never changed – it’s just the way we express and deliver those values which is changing,” she says.